Moderator: Tim White
Caver John wrote:So if your willing to go off of bw specs, then didn't you just answer your own question?
ron_miller wrote:Jeff - another important factor to consider is the "critical angle" - the interior angle formed by the webbing at the connector. The tests presented at ITRS 2011 were done with a very low critical angle, about 12 - 13 degrees, IIRC, thus allowing each leg of the webbing to see about half the load. At a critical angle of 120 degrees, each leg sees the full load; for field calcs, I would suggest (until testing at higher critical angles suggests otherwise!) that you would want to reduce the anchor's estimated strength based on Tom and Aaron's ITRS paper by half. At a critical angle of 90 degrees, each side sees 70% of the load. At critical angles above 120 degrees, the force multiplier effect ramps up pretty quickly, further reducing the overall anchor strength.
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